- CREATOR & COLLECTOR -

Designed by MOTORTOGS

Built by BILL KELSO Mfg.

The Dubow 27798 jacket is distinguished by the signature collar and unique big square mil.spec. label which includes the size. Apart from the beautifully shaped collar this jacket features some of the best seen curved and pointy pocket flaps and big x-box epaulets. The jacket has a slim athletic fit and although the back is somewhat narrow the wearer’s 

JACKET FEATURES:

• Shell: Liberty [Dark Seal] Horsehide 
• Lining: Herringbone Twill - WWII USMC "beach"
• Thread - 100% Cotton [Dark Brown] Thread
• Knits: USAAF 100% Wool [Red Rust]
• Collar Hook: NOS WWII Collar Hooks
• Front Closure: NOS WWII Crown #10 Spring Action Pin-locking Zipper
• Snap Fasteners for pockets: Original WWII NOS ANZO Type Snap Fasteners in Gov’t black color, made by UNITED CARR
• Combat Squadron P
• 
  

Bill Kelso Mfg. is an online leather jacket manufacturer based in Athens, Greece. Their website is user-friendly, showcasing a range of products including U.S. military outerwear, civilian jackets, and movie replicas. Each jacket is crafted one at a time in their workshop by a single machinist, using premium materials such as vegetable-tanned horsehide, cowhide, goatskin, lambskin, and high-qualit

An original photograph of an USAAF 363rd Fighter Squadron member standing next to their skull & sword emblem. 

These are original motorcyclist photographs from the late 1930s through the 1950s, sourced from private collections and eBay.

Photograph 1 is the "Crown Jewel" of the MOTORTOGS collection. It is a full-length photo of an AMA (American Motorcycle Association) sanctioned Gypsy Tour gathering in Ohio, 1946. The image is so clear and well-preserved that you can even read the letters on the patrolman's 

This is my favorite part of the photograph: Notice how these riders are all sporting black horsehide motorcycle jackets, likely indicating they were part of the same riding club or group. They certainly look like they mean business! Leather gear (jackets, breeches, and boots) was standard protective equipment of the time and also conveyed a rebellious, outsider, tough-guy image. The rider leaning 

These additional motorcyclist photographs are part of the MOTORTOGS archives and provide invaluable inspiration for rugged men’s and women’s styles from the era. MOTORTOGS continually seeks to expand the collection with more photographic material from this period.

Two motorcyclists posing on their Harley-Davidsons. The man on the left is wearing a Beck "333" leather jacket while the man on the right is wearing a sport style leather jacket with a fur collar.

Motorcyclist gathering in the late 1940s/early 1950s. Leather jackets were the standard protection gear of the time, hence there abundance in the photo.

TALON ZIPPERS: Manufactured in the USA in the 1940s - 1960s. New Old Stock / Deadstock / Reclaimed. Made of nickel, brass, aluminium dominate materials. Cotton, Cotton/Nylon tape. Opened & Closed end.

This is the exact Talon zipper model featured in Marlon Brando's iconic motorcycle jacket from the 1953 film The Wild One. The teeth shape closely resembles that of Crown zippers. This zipper type was commonly used in heavy-duty garments, such as leather motorcycle jackets, and large travel luggage (like vintage LL Bean).

CROWN ZIPPERS: USA in the 1940s - 1950s. New Old Stock / Deadstock / Reclaimed. Made of zinc, brass, nickel dominate materials. Cotton tape. Opened & Closed end.

Crown zippers are my favorite manufacturer for their exceptional durability and unique mechanical features, such as their spring-action pulls. The distinctive teeth on Crown zippers provide a remarkably smooth and satisfying experience when opening and closing the zipper.

"CC" COATS & CLARK ZIPPERS: In the mid-1950s, Coats & Clark Inc. acquired the Crown zipper brand, resulting in Crown zippers being produced with Coats & Clark branding on the pull tabs. The zipper teeth remained unchanged until the 1960s or '70s, when they underwent only minor updates in appearance.

CONMAR & SCOVILL ZIPPERS: USA in the 1940s - 1960s. New Old Stock / Deadstock / Reclaimed. Made of nickel, brass + blackened brass, aluminium dominate materials. Cotton, Cotton/Nylon tape. Opened & Closed end.

I particularly appreciate the blackened brass and OD olive drab items in the MOTORTOGS collection. I've seen photos of vintage military jackets featuring these elements, where the overcoat we

MOTORTOGS presents exclusive horsehide labels crafted in collaboration with John Chapman of Goodwear Leathers.

I reached out to John to ask where he sourced his brand labels and for his recommendations. During our discussion, we discovered a shared interest in creating our own exclusive horsehide labels inspired by a 1930s-1950s early American leather maker design, which had not yet been replicated

After reviewing over 40 vintage examples, we narrowed our selection to a few standout designs. We unanimously chose a specific horsehide label used by Admiral Byrd and Montgomery Ward in the 1930s. This label, produced in limited quantities and rarely seen in vintage collections, was the clear choice for custom production by an American woven label manufacturer.

This is the original 1930s example we discovered during our search and review process

MOTORTOGS x GOODWEAR LEATHERS 1930s Reproduction Horsehide Labels

Newly minted and ready to be sewn into custom horsehide leather jackets!

VINTAGE UNUSED HORSEHIDE LABELS [SAMPLES] FROM THE LATE 1930s OR EARLY 1940s: Alongside our collaboration with John Chapman on custom woven labels, I was fortunate to acquire these unused vintage horsehide labels for the MOTORTOGS archives. Dated to 1939 or the early 1940s, they are a rare find.